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Optimus Prime Climbing Shoes image
 
(based on 4 ratings)
Brand: EVOLV
Online Retailer ID: 210277450
Located in: All Outdoor Gear, Climbing Gear, Rock Climbing Shoes
Designed on a completely different last than any other climbing shoes, the Optimus Prime offers a symetric toe box (rounded toe box). A flexible shoe that rewards strong climbers, the Optimus is the fourth installment in the Sharma Signature Series
Product Reviews Summary
Avg. Customer Rating:
 
(based on 4 reviews)
100% of respondents would recommend this to a friend.

Customers most agreed on the following attributes:

Sizing:
Feels true to size (3)
Width:
Feels true to width (4)
Best Uses:
Bouldering (4), Indoor (4), Outdoors (4)
Describe Yourself:
Avid climber (3)
 
Great all-around shoes
By bryan b from West Chester, PA on 10/24/2008
Sizing:
Feels true to size
Width:
Feels true to width
Pros:
Versatile
Best Uses:
Bouldering, Indoor, Outdoor, Sprint Climbs
Describe Yourself:
Avid Climber
Bottom Line:
Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

The Optimus Prime are great shoes for bouldering, sport (vertical/overhanging), and pretty much everything else so long as the shoe fits you. I've never had too many problems finding shoes that fit, but these shoes fit exceptionally well. Here's my sizing to give you an idea; I'm a 9.5 street shoe. 9.5 in Optimus Prime, 9.0 in Pontas, 8.5 in Fiveten Anazasi VCS, 40.5 in Sportiva Testarosa, 40.0 in Muiras. Some break-in time is required in these; however, they almost mold to your feet and are great on small holds as well as pulling on overhanging routes. Haven't noticed a lack in performance due to the symmetrical toe-box. Precision is dead on. The slight down-turn adds a good performance aspect to this shoe, while still being very comfortable. Toe-hooking is super easy as well given the trax oval rand. Typically, if you can fit into other evolv shoes, these should work. Hope this helps.

 
Best Shoes Ever
By TrickyNickVerified Purchaser from Hillsborough, NJ on 10/17/2008
Sizing:
Feels full size too small
Width:
Feels true to width
Pros:
Comfortable
Best Uses:
Bouldering, Indoor, Outdoor
Describe Yourself:
Casual/ Recreational
Bottom Line:
Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

The first thing that turned me on to this shoe was the symmetrical toe box. After trying many different shoes in several sizes each, I could not get a comfortable fit because my second toe is longer than my first. Shoes that have asymmetrical toes created painful hotspots that prevented me from putting all my weight on my feet. When I first tried the Optimus Primes, I pulled off moves and successfully climbed routes and problems that I couldn't do before. I'm not saying it's all in the shoes, but it is a little bit. The Trax rubber holds very well on both rock and gym surfaces. Edging, smearing, and hooking ability is awesome. Another great thing about them is how well they fit while still being very snug. I don't have to take them off between climbs like I did with other shoes. Evolv's sizing chart is dead-on, so you're sure to get a perfect fit!

 
Oh My God
By DaviatorVerified Reviewer from The big NJ on 9/10/2008
Sizing:
Feels true to size
Width:
Feels true to width
Pros:
Eye Catching, Lightweight, Pwnage, Total Awesomeness, Versatile
Cons:
Dunno Yet
Best Uses:
Bouldering, Indoor, Outdoor
Describe Yourself:
Avid Climber
Bottom Line:
Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

I use these shoes 5 days a week Monday through Friday and they are phenomenal. They ARE down turned even though they are not advertised as being so, but they only stay that way for like 48 hours so it's no biggie. This shoe has failed to let me fall off the tiniest holds so far i hope it doesn't start to.

 
Pretty good, but not WOW!
By shortyVerified Purchaser from grand junction, CO on 8/17/2008
Sizing:
Feels true to size
Width:
Feels true to width
Best Uses:
Bouldering, Indoor, Outdoor
Describe Yourself:
Avid Climber
Bottom Line:
Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

Some how I ended up with a pair of these. It's a long story. I've never been a fan of Evolv shoes or Trax rubber. I got these while I was waiting for a pair of shoes from another company that were being warrantied. Also not a huge fan of the rounded toe box. They edge well don't get me wrong, but trying to get in to those little pockets where a more pronounced toe point would help isn't as confidence inspiring. I slipped off a few things that I've never slipped on before, but as I wore them I sort of honed in on how they perform best. I got to liking them. I would have to say though that if agree that Vibram xs grip is outstanding than you won't be as excited about Trax rubber. It does have a great solid heel though and the rubber over the toes is well placed as well. I think overall they are good shoes. If I had a choice I would have went for something else comparable (solutions, jet 7, booster) but when you're handed shoes you shouldn't complain. All and all it is another option in the steeps type shoe.

Eastern Mountain Sports Response:Great review! Thanks.
Customer Reviews about the Optimus Prime Climbing Shoes at Eastern Mountain Sports
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